Tucking her tummy in and fanny under, however, has never been possible for her, and years as a competitive gymnast executing that fabulous dismount and judges' salute have given her a distinct swayback. As a result, she hasn't been able to find a line of jeans that consistently fit well in the waist - just can't get the right hug in the back.
The point about the flexible curve is that I wished I'd used it for my own jeans pattern before I cut. I've got this little shelf of fabric just below the bottom of the fly, and I'm quite certain I need to bring the front crotch curve inward there - reducing the body space allowed. My ASDP colleague and friend Joyce Simons Murphy has written fantastic articles for Threads about this counterintuitive concept - the instinct is to take in a seam where you see excess fabric, but with a crotch curve it's almost always the opposite: you need extra fabric to be able to bring the seam in closer to the body. Holding that flexible curve up against the body, marking the center point and waist points, then laying it down on paper, you can trace an exact duplicate of the shape needed.
|Flexible curve laid on paper. Center point marked.|
|Voila! The right curve is created.|
Using the same jeans pattern I used for myself, I traced off Erin's size and adjusted where necessary. I basted all the main pieces together, without assembling the front pockets or inserting the zipper, to check the fit. Before she left on Friday to return to St. Louis, I was able to make the adjustments and have try the jeans on again for a recheck. Take a look at the results -
|Still a bit of folding there below the fly. I haven't decided whether I need to do more fine-tuning at the curve, or let it go.|
|But look at the way this is going to fit! I added curve to the yoke with darts in the pattern, and popped the center back seam out at the top to match Erin's curve.|
|She chose the dark gold. The taupe-gray at left is what I used on my jeans.|
|I almost don't want to show you this - that topstitching along the center back seam really needs to be redone...|
One thing still under consideration is the decorative stitching for the back pockets. Mine were left plain, but I'm thinking of experimenting with something that will reflect my company logo, a curving J with a calligraphic look, maybe, or just some looping double stitching. The seminar I took with Jen Stern at the ASDP/ASE conference in September gave me the opportunity to play a little with bar-tacking on this mini-jeans sample, and her recommendation was to come up with a signature bar-tack as well as pocket design.
|So cute! We made the pocket bags out of printed cotton, too.|