I finished a pair of jeans for myself last week, the second I've made from the old Sandra Betzina pattern.
So I made some adjustments to this pair as I put them together, and added some new design details to make them more my own.
|The pocket topstitching is the same design I created for Erin's jeans|
Okay, first crisis averted. I happily worked on these, paying really close attention to details like the topstitching, using a cute cotton print for the insides of the pockets, basically concentrating on the process of sewing - something I don't often get to do. Because we are having one amazingly stormy winter here in Massachusetts, I've had at least one extra snow day per week to sew since the last week of January - so I haven't had to feel guilty as I would if I were stealing time from bridal alterations and other client work. Although I feel very badly for the last bride, whose wedding is tomorrow and we have another foot of snow with blizzard conditions predicted!
|That change pocket does look slightly different, but nobody's going to be close enough to notice!|
I fit the jeans as I went along, often. I fussed over the crotch curve and how to get the front to lie smoothly below the zipper - not as successfully as I'd hoped. I tried to apply what I learned at a seminar on Eureka! Pants that Fit! with Rae Cumbie and Carrie Emerson last Fall, mostly that I need a really extended back crotch point and nearly a straight line down the front crotch, ending in a very short curve and a very forward front crotch point. I still get the feeling of too much fabric at the top of my thighs, and haven't solved that issue. I took the inseams and outseams in, several times, adjusting the crotch point in various ways, trying them on again and again. When I finally felt I had things looking right, I topstitched the back yoke seams and forged ahead to finish the waist with those facings.
Imagine my dismay when I tried them on again - expecting to just determine the placement for the jeans button and buttonhole - and found I had a crazy gap at the back waist! That back yoke/waistband (it's one piece in this pattern) had been fit to me on the first pair I made, I'd already darted out the extra to make this hug my back waist - and now I had this space I could fit my hand into? I was so upset by this, I didn't think to get a photo. I also didn't hesitate to get out the seam ripper - undoing the "stitch in the ditch", the understitching, and the belt loops attached - to release enough of the back waist seam to be able to work with both the yoke and the facing. I had to create darts at the waist seam, tapering to nothing as close as I could get to the lower seam, in order to bring the edge close to my body where I needed it.
|The dart isn't horribly visible, and I wear my tops out anyway. At least there isn't a separate waistband piece that would have needed a seam as well.|
|Inside view of back facing, including a glimpse of my front pockets|
|Notes on the yoke back pattern piece - red lines were the first corrections, blue pencil lines and notes are for this most recent fitting alteration.|
|After the adjustment to bring in the back waist -|
*A little note from the workshop - my dh heard me hammering to put in the jeans button. I was having a really hard time hitting it straight, and managed to ruin two sets of buttons and their backers by bending them - without actually getting them to mate! His solution? He put it into his workbench vise and tightened. Voila!*
|Pardon the iPhone selfies - I'll try to get better photos later.|
|They're not perfect, but also not horrible -|
So I wore these jeans the other day. They felt loose when I put them on, and looser as the day went by. By late afternoon, I could pull the front away from me more than two inches, the side seams felt loose, and the legs enormous. Someone told me that a clerk at a mall store had advised her to buy a size smaller in their stretch jeans, and this is exactly why. I am pretty much devastated - but thankful that I decided against topstitching any of the leg seams. That much less to rip, when I decide I'm ready to take them in. Next pair with stretch? I may just go down a size in the pattern - and make all the other adjustments I recorded from this experience.
To reset my mojo, on Monday when I ended up with yet another snow day off from Sawyer Brook to spend in the studio, I made pillow covers for the bedroom (shh! don't tell my clients I do home dec!).
|Now I'm going to have to do something about the bed cover....|
Until next time -